Aitutaki is a really really special place – and in some ways difficult to describe because until you have been there it is hard to imagine it exists. The clearest blue lagoon with sparking waters, bright white deserted beaches, almost constant sunshine, very few people and lots of peace and quiet, lovely friendly locals, and a very relaxed way of life.
What a wonderful two weeks! We haven’t long been back from our trip ‘deep in the south pacific’ to the small island of Aitutaki in the Cook islands to celebrate our three year wedding anniversary. We first visited Aitutaki three years ago on our honeymoon and had the most incredible time. We got married at Lake Tahoe on the beach in August 2010 (which was a truly magical day) and flew from LA to start our honeymoon in Aitutaki, spending 5 days back then. This time around we decided on staying for two weeks. We also opted for a different type of accommodation this time too. Last time we stayed at the lovely and intimate Etu Moana (voted number 1 on Trip Advisor) and had a great time, but decided this time it would be nice to have more space and our own house. We discovered some amazing holiday houses and chose Are Kapakapa as where we would like to spend our time. The hosts of the house – Miles and Emma – were incredibly helpful over email when booking the house, and we definitely made a great decision.
We departed Auckland on Saturday 3rd August for Rarotonga – flying with Air New Zealand. We actually arrived on Friday – because we had crossed the date line and had to wind our watched back 22 hours! We had a few hours to wait at Rarotonga airport – which is pretty tiny and mostly outdoors! We also found that a funeral was actually taking place at the airport – my husband John inadvertently found himself sitting right in the middle of it without knowing, so after spotting the coffin soon moved!! There was lots of loud singing and it seemed more of a life’s celebration rather than a sombre affair. Life in the Cook islands is so different to anywhere else and this was certainly a different introduction. We then hopped on our Air Raro flight to Aitutaki which took about 45 minutes. We arrived in the evening and were greeted by Emma who had arranged a taxi to take us to our house – Are Kapakapa. It was a beautiful house – with loads of space and all the amenities we would possibly need, two bedrooms, a lovely kitchen, big outdoor living area, and great bathroom. The space around the house was also huge with a big garden and we felt really private. It was definitely a great choice! It was also a snip of the price of the two luxurious resorts around the island.
We spent the next two weeks on the island really enjoying relaxing and living on ‘island time’ as the locals call it. There simply isn’t much to do and that is the appeal! You can relax – enjoy the gorgeous sunshine and swimming in the amazingly blue lagoon.
Practically the island is pretty remote and as such the food situation is pretty different! I think the options they have are good despite their remoteness. The shops don’t stock that much, so bear this in mind if you are planning a trip. Some people bring things over with them from New Zealand.
They mostly some random tinned goods, some frozen goods, a few bits of cereal, crisps etc. There are some loaves of bread on the island but these sell out pretty quickly, and there is no fresh milk. Fresh fruit and veg are also quite hard to come by! So it can be quite difficult to buy enough food to make a good meal. As such most people on the island usually eat out, and there are some good options. Our favourite places to eat were Puffys who did delicious fish and chips, Koru Cafe (with very friendly owners and a varied menu) and the Flying Boat at the Aitutaki Lagoon resort.
At the flying boat we enjoying drinking Mocktails and eating their pizza. The view from here is also amazing! And definitely the best view we have ever had at a restaurant. It is also lovely to take a walk out onto the sandbar where you can watch the sun disappearing behind the island. What is also really lovely about the Flying Boat is a short boat trip you get across from the main island to the tiny island where it is located. It takes about a minute but has beautiful views around the lagoon. There isn’t much wrong with island life, but one of the very few negatives is mosquito bites, but they are just part of life on the island – which even the locals say! If you use good insect repellant you will avoid getting loads, but there are lots of them around so you won’t be able to avoid them all together. Make sure you take cream or something to help with the itching or pain and you will be fine. We weren’t that bothered by our bites at all really!
We got around on the island via a scooter which we hired from Rino’s Rentals. We had a few teething problems with two earlier scooters, but we ended up with a lovely vintage looking one. We only hired one as John was happy to drive and I was comfortable on the back. It cost us $20 a day to hire as we had it for 2 weeks. It was great driving around the island on it. They don’t provide helmets but the fastest you are allowed to go is just under 30mph (40kmph) and the island is so small and there aren’t too vehicles so you are safe as long as you take care when driving. We also had to get a Cook islands drivers licence for $2.50 from the local police station. John met the two police officers there who, when they found out John was from England, just wanted to chat about English football!
Some of our real highlights of our time on the island included watching the beautiful sunsets. The best beach for watching the sun set was a 5 minute walk away from our holiday house, and usually we had the whole beach to ourselves. It was amazing just to be able to sit, relax and watch the gorgeous colours fill the sky. We were also lucky enough to swim in the wonderful lagoon every day.
We usually swam down at our favourite beach called Ootu beach as it was deep enough to swim there, and there was never anyone around. We also swam at the beach where we watched the sun set. There was another beach that we spent time at, which we found just off the side of the road. Aitutaki is a really quiet island anyway, but it was great to discover another little hidden cove where only we were. We spent time here relaxing and enjoying the gorgeous views.
The real highlight of our trip came on our three year wedding anniversary – Monday 12th August. We decided to charter a boat for half a day, so we would have the boat all to ourselves and could go wherever we wished. We did the same thing on our honeymoon three years ago and had a wonderful time. This time around we used the same company – Wet & Wild, and were taken out by Quinton and a really memorable time.
We decided we wanted to do some island hopping, spending a bit of time on our favourite islands in the lagoon. We visited Honeymoon island, stunningly beautiful Maina island pictured at the top of this post (where we walked round the whole island), One Foot Island (where the lagoon looked an incredibly amazing blue) and volcanic Rapota island.
For those of you who can remember the British TV show ‘Shipwrecked Battle of the Islands’ the Aitutaku lagoon was the setting for that show and two deserted islands in particular – Rapota and Moturaku were used to home the two teams (Tigers and Sharks). I always remember watching the show and thinking how amazing the islands looked and now we have been lucky enough to visit! They were also used in the American reality show ‘Survivor’ in the ‘Cook islands’ season a few years ago. We spoke to a few people who were involved with the filming of both shows and it was great finding out some insights and secrets! We discovered the boat that took us out on our trip was used to ferry contestants back and forth to the islands on Shipwrecked (and rather geekily watched a few bits back on youtube since and have seen it!).
We had such an amazing day out on the boat, got some stunning photos (see more in my gallery below) and just loved spending time together on our special day.
We also took a walk to the highest point of the island one morning – quite early so it wouldn’t be too hot. At only 124m it is hardly Everest but Maungapu was a steady climb and provided great views around the lagoon. We were able to see our favourite swimming spots, and where we took the boat over to our favourite food place.
Overall our trip to Aitutaki was truly unforgettable and we will never forget our incredible South Pacific adventures. To be able to spend so much time together relaxing, and just enjoying being together in such a beautiful place was simply priceless. 🙂
If anyone is interested in learning more about taking a trip to Aitutaki my company Blue Penguin Travel can certainly help. Whilst we specialise in trips to New Zealand we also have experience in the Cook islands, so please feel free to contact me to learn more.