Posts Tagged With: dolphins

Flashback time – Bay of Islands and Breaching Whales!

Whale breaching

Whale breaching

Jumping dolphins

Jumping dolphins

This time two years ago¬†we were travelling around the beautiful Bay of Islands region of New Zealand. Exploring the area was great and there were some really beautiful things to see. Take a look at my blog post about our trip for details of exactly what we did – this is a rather honest account where I had some issues with the ‘Dolphin Discoveries’ boat trip we took. However this also brought us one of the highlights of our time in New Zealand – seeing beautiful humpback whales jumping out of the water! I was able to capture a few shots of them (again see my post for more!) and the above shot is my favourite. Apparently this is a very rare sight in this area and only 2-5% of trips are as lucky as we were. We also saw dolphins who put on a bit of a display with their acrobatics – jumping high out of the water.

Photographing wildlife is one of my favourite things to do, and check out my photography website for more shots of some wildlife I have been lucky enough to capture.

Cape Reinga signpost

Cape Reinga signpost

We stayed in Paihia, which although one of the busier areas of the Bay of Islands was the perfect location to get out and explore the best of this area. Other highlights of our trip included the long drive up to Cape Reinga (where we timed our trip perfectly so we were the only ones at the famous signpost and lighthouse which was great) and exploring off the beaten track and seeing the kauri trees and the beautiful Rainbow Falls. We were also blessed with gorgeous weather during our stay and enjoyed the warm sun and clear blue skies.

The Bay of Islands has the perfect mixture of beautiful scenery, beaches and wildlife – with easily enough to do for a short break.

Categories: Activities, Flashback, New Zealand, North Island, Photographs, Wildlife | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

My ‘The Beauty of New Zealand’ short film

I thought I would share with you a short film that I made recently titled ‘The Beauty of New Zealand’ using iMovie on my Macbook – under the name of my travel consultancy company Blue Penguin Travel. We are spending a year in New Zealand and our time here is coming to a close (we have trips to Australia and the Cook Islands coming up before heading back to the UK at the end of August) – so I have made this homage to the beauty of New Zealand using my own bits of video and photographs I have taken whilst over here. Enjoy! ūüôā

Categories: Blue Penguin, New Zealand, North Island, Photographs, South Island | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Beautiful Bay of Islands

Thursday 3rd January – Sunday 6th January: Bay of Islands


TreetopsAnother part of our New Zealand adventure that had been on our ‘to do’ list for some time was a trip to the Bay of Islands. Like Wellington, its reputation certainly preceded it, and we were keen to explore the area and see what it was like. Many people we spoke to said it was their favourite part of North island so we felt it was time. After our New Years adventure in Wellington we flew up to Auckland, picked up our hire car (made all the less enjoyable by appalling customer service from a woman at Hertz). Soon behind the wheel of a black holden Barina spark named ‘Harry’ (for those of you who have been following the blog – a cousin to the sadly missed Barry), we headed up to Paihia which would be the base for our trip. It took us around 4 hours, as we headed over the Auckland harbour bridge, our of the city, and into Northland. On arrival in Paihia we quickly located our lovely accommodation – a house called ‘Treetops’ part of Abri apartments. The view from our place was lovely, and it had all the comforts of home, including a lovely spa bath and cuddly dressing gowns (although due to the hot weather while we were staying there we didn’t get to use the latter!). That evening we walked the short 5 minute walk into the centre of Paihia to have a nice meal – we went to Frank’s and enjoyed a delicious pizza.

On boat leaving PaihiaThe next morning we awoke to beautiful blue skies and headed out early to the Explore NZ office to pick up our tickets for a pre-booked boat trip out to the Hole in the Rock with Dolphin Discoveries. Our boat departed at 9.00am and we were lucky to have a seat outside on the mid-deck along the side. We explored the whole of the Bay of Islands on the trip, as we passed by lots of different beautiful islands (some of the 144 in the area!), and saw wildlife along the way.


We saw lovely dolphins jumping up and out of the water. It was a little tough to see at times due to the high volume of people on the boat (but this was the peak of summer in NZ and the summer holidays!).¬†Then the big – and very unexpected moment came –¬† we came across humpback whales breaching. They repeatedly jumped high, out of the water, over and in again – it really was a beautiful sight. I don’t want to¬†complain too much here, but I was quite disappointed with the actions of the company when this happened. The whales were at the front of the boat, and instead of turning the boat around and allowing everyone else at the back of the boat (there was no viewing area at the front for the public) they kept the boat facing forward. It seemed quite a selfish move, as their own photographers went to the ‘staff only’ part at the front of the boat and started snapping away. They were pretty open about the fact that they sell these photos to the people on board, and it really did seem that they thought they would get photos to sell the rest of us, rather than allowing us to see them for ourselves and take our own photos. This was a very rare sight though – and one member of staff mentioned it only happens¬†on 2-5% of their trips that they see whales – let alone ones that breach so often! My lucky and magic moment came right at the end of our time with the whales and produced my gem of a photo above – the boat turned to move away from the whales as said time was up, and only when they did this were the whales now situated at the back of the boat. With some quick thinking I moved right to the back of the boat and was able to capture a couple of whales breaching, and was delighted. I used the action setting on my camera to capture multiple shots of them, and you can see the stages here:









Hole in the rock Following our whale adventure the boat headed off to the famous ‘hole in the rock’. Due to the weather unfortunately we weren’t able to go through, but we all got a good look. Next stop was Otehei Bay where due to the lengthy amount of time we spent with the whales was a whistle-stop tour. We docked here, had enough time to join the long queue for the toilet (there were 3 ladies loos!), have a quick snack on the beach and then had to head back the boat. The other boat – operated by Fullers – was there at the same time. We actually witnessed them leaving at the time they agreed and left a family behind! Luckily for them our company let them come aboard. Following our stop there we headed back towards Paihia and we requested the drop off at Russell on the way back.

Overall and for anyone reading interested in the differences between Dolphine Discoveries and Fullers Hole in the Rock tours I would actually recommend going with Fullers. Their boat was slightly smaller, they had a viewing deck at the front (which would have helped with viewing wildlife) and they turned around (we watched them!) when the whales were around ensuring all people on board can see and take photos. We did still really enjoy our trip, but felt that Dolphin Discoveries could have done so much more to enhance our experience. Still, we made the most of it and still got some great pics.

Long beachOn arrival at Russell we headed to have some food and chose the Waterfront cafe to have lunch. Unfortunately the food took forever to arrive and let’s say wasn’t at all delicious. They might have been having an off day but we quickly left. We took a walk through the historic parts of Russell, past its famous church and arrived at Long Beach. We spent a short while here, took some pics and then headed back to the wharf to take the ferry back to Paihia. A nice relaxing evening in Paihia followed after a great day out on the boat and exploring.

IMG_8476The following morning the alarm sounded at 5.30am and we were getting up early due to an ambitious planning trip up to Cape Reinga and back. We knew the tour buses departed Paihia around 7.15am so were keen to get on the road and up there before they did. We left the house around 6.40am and after filling up with petrol we were on the road. It was an enjoyable trip up as the roads were pretty empty and the scenery was stunning. Passing Awanui we took the lone road up to Cape¬†Reinga. IMG_8528The total journey from Paihia up to Cape Reinga took us just under 3 hours. On arriving we parked up and took the walk down to the lighthouse and famous signpost. We were incredibly lucky to have this area to ourselves for about 15 minutes, so took some good pics and enjoyed our time. We read about the ‘Meeting Point’ which is where two seas meets – the Pacific ocean and Tasman ocean meet. You can actually see in the water where the two sets of waves come up against one another – it is quite a sight! IMG_8739The views down towards Ninety Mile beach were also spectacular and we enjoyed walking around this area to explore. After a bench stop for some choccie biccies and to take in the views we headed back to the car. We got back on the road and started our journey back to Paihia.

IMG_8949We made the most of the journey back, making stops along the way. We had lunch at the beautiful Cable Bay. We also took a detour along a gravel road to an Puketi ancient Kauri forest where we saw really old trees. We went on the Manginangina Kauri walk, which was well planned out and made up of a boardwalk around and through the amazing trees. It was really worth the trip and a great sight.

Us at Rainbow FallsOur last stop before Paihia was Rainbow Falls. A little harder to find – although heading for ‘Rainbow falls road’ meant we did find it! We took the short walks here – one to the top and a rather steep descent to the bottom to see the falls in all their glory. Whilst at the top we were lucky to see a rainbow across the waterfall and quickly capture a couple of pics (see below gallery for more). Whereas whilst at the bottom we saw the whole waterfall and it was beautiful.

A trip back to Franks was first whilst back at Paihia and we enjoyed a nice evening walk along the waterfront and an ice cream from Movenpick. Although busy – as it peak season – we really like Paihia’s atmosphere and the scenery was stunning. Sunday 6th of January was soon here and we got up early to begin our long journey back to Auckland. We were due to spend 2 nights here before flying back down to Queenstown and beginning the next chapter of our adventure.

Categories: Accommodation, Activities | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

South Island Highlights ‚Äď Top 5 things to do on South Island, New Zealand

So next in my Top 5 series reflecting on our amazing 5 week holiday around the South island of New Zealand is ‘Top 5 trips/activities’. As with my Top 5 places post I found this incredibly difficult to choose only 5 as we did such great things. I have cheated a little and included those that just missed out at the bottom ūüôā

Top 5 things to do:

1. Mount Cook: Glacier Explorers boat trip

A must-do activity for anyone visiting the Mount Cook area is the Glacier Explorers lagoon boat trip. Having also been to Iceland’s famous and striking Jokulsarlon lagoon we weren’t sure how this would measure up but it was a really fantastic¬†experience! The surrounding landscape of the Tasman Glacier is striking, with amazing views of Mount Cook itself whilst out on the lagoon. The photo opportunities are endless and we really loved our trip we took back in October.¬†We were also very lucky with having such perfect weather for the trip. The weather at Mount Cook is very¬†temperamental¬†and changeable, and so we had to postone our trip from the day before but it was certainly worth it! The whole package provided by Glacier Explorers involves a short coach ride of about 15 minutes along a windy gravel road, followed by a brisk walk along a flat path through beautiful terrain. This brings you to the Tasman Glacier Lake. The really great thing about this trip is the size of boats (ours held about 10 people) and that you can get really close to the icebergs. We spent about 45 mins to an hour out on the lake and travelled around the lake exploring, as well as getting as close to the Tasman glacier as was safe to. We were also able to hold parts of the icebergs as well as having time to take in the stunning scenery.


Cost: NZD $145 pp.

Times: Up to 7 trips daily (seasonal)

Total activity time: 2 hours 30 (1 hour on the lake)

2. Marlborough Sounds boat trip

This was a truly memorable¬†experience¬†for us, as we had booked this trip to coincide with my husband’s celebration of his 30th birthday and it certainly was a birthday never to forget! Certainly not a cheap activity, but for a special occasion it is really worth its value. There are lots of boat trip options leaving from the Picton area around the sounds, but on this special day we didn’t want to be on board a big board full of tourists, we wanted to chose where we went and what we¬†experienced¬†on board our own privately chartered boat ¬†– the Stormdancer. After much research we chose Queen Charlotte Boat Cruises¬†and was in email contact with Sybil (who along with her husband Ian, own the company).¬†Communication¬†was very easy and we set up the¬†arrangements¬†for the trip. As the day arrived we were greeted by Sybil and welcomed into their home while Ian fuelled the boat ready for our trip. We boarded the boat and were briefed on safety procedures and soon set off on our half day cruise. The trip was really fantastic and we enjoyed travelling all around the sounds. Ian and Sybil had the perfect balance of chatting to us at times and giving us info about the area, but also leaving us to enjoy the time together, just us. We explored the sounds, stopping at little private coves and stopped at one for tea and delicious birthday cake (baked by Sybil!). We also saw¬†different¬†wildlife¬†along the journey including a seal and the real highlight came when a pod of dolphins appeared and started following the boat. They jumped out of the waves behind the boat as we drove around and it really was an amazing sight to see them. All in all, it was a truly perfect trip and comes¬†highly¬†recommended.


Cost: NZD $450 for half day private charter of boat and you can choose your departure time.

Total activity time: Approx 3 hours.

3. Hanmer Springs thermal pools

Visiting the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools was the first main place we visited upon arrival in New Zealand back in September. We really enjoyed the time we spent relaxing here and the facilities are fantastic! There are so many different pools Рtwelve! Рto choose from including adult only aqua therapy ones (with lovely relaxing massage jets), rock pools (with minerals) and super hot (and smelly!) sulphur ones. The thermal pools are set amongst the beautiful backdrop of the mountains and are a wonderful place to relax.

Details: Price: NZD$18 for single entry or $30 for 2 day pass, plus locker and towel hire.

Times: The pools are open from 10am to 9pm and you can spend as long as you like there!

4. Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony

Read more about our incredible expereince visiting the Oamaru Blue Pengiun Colony. Whether you feel you are a lover of penguins or not you will be by the end of this – believe me! This visit allows you to see the world’s smallest penguins, the blue penguins – only 40 cms high in their natural environment, coming in on shore and heading to nest. When we visited we were incredibly lucky to see a total of about 200 penguins come ashore. We also took a short walk just¬†outside¬†of the main area and saw some penguins crossing the road that had just come ashore. It doesn’t matter that you aren’t able to take photos (the above is copyright of the Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony) and just seeing them is amazing! Set up with a strong conservation focus this company are helping to save and breed these lovely little creatures and it is a must-do trip if you find yourselves in the Dunedin/Oamaru area.

Details: Price: NZD$12/$18 day tour (unguided/guided); $25/$35 for evening tour (general/premium seating).

Times: 17.30-21.00 (depending on season).

5. Whale Watching in Kaikoura

We took a boat trip with Whale Watch¬†back in September and had a great time out on the boat. We were lucky to see two sperm whales on our trip and had perfect weather conditions. Seeing these beautiful creatures in the water and spending time alongside them in the boat is a truly unforgettable¬†experience¬† Some reviews of the trip refer to sea sickness being a problem but we took our tablets and had no issues, so it isn’t something to be worried about.

Details: Price: NZD$145 pp.

Times: Up to 7 trips a day (seasonal)

Total activity time: 3 hours 30 (2 hours 30 out on the boat)

Trips that nearly made the list were:

  • Glenorchy Journeys Half Day LOTR 4WD tour – an amazing guide and great fun! You explore Glenorchy’s¬†stunning¬†scenery and set the film locations from LOTR and The Hobbit. Read about our¬†experience¬†here.¬†Cost = NZD$145 per person for 2+ people.
  • The Kiwi birdlife park in Queenstown – your entrance fee helps towards conservation here and it is a fantastic place to visit, with well-cared-for kiwis, many other native birds and plants, and an¬†excellently¬†run live conservation show. Cost = NZD$38 per person.
  • Heli-hike on Franz Josef Glacier – this was only left off the list because we did this back in 2006 and it was so memorable (and a little pricey!) we did not replicate it on our 2012. Involving an amazing helicopter ride up on the glacier and short hike, this is a real all-time highlight of our various trips to NZ. Cost = NZD$395 per person.
Categories: Activities, New Zealand, Top 5 | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

South Island Highlights – Top 5 places to visit on South Island, New Zealand

Reflecting on our incredible New Zealand 2012 Holiday on the South island back in Sept/Oct (as part of our year long stay in New Zealand) I have decided to start a series of blog posts with a ‘Top 5’ theme – highlighting our favourite places, drives,¬†activities¬†etc. from our trip around South Island.

I am starting with the biggest one of all – top 5 places to visit on the South island. This was extremely difficult to actually narrow down to only 5 as we travelled round the whole of the South island (driving over 3,700 kilometeres in just over 3 weeks!) visting some truly stunning and amazing places. They aren’t in any order as it was difficult enough choosing just 5 let alone putting them in an order of priority!

So here we go. . .

Top 5 places we visited:

1. Queenstown

Queenstown has always been a place we love to visit. Having been here once before in 2006 if we are honest it stole our hearts. Coming back to Queenstown and spending longer on this trip was just brilliant. It does have a reputaion as being the ‘adventure capital’ of NZ but there is so much more to it! We love its breathtaking beauty and the stunning Lake Wakatipu and views of the Remarkables. Taking a walk along the Frankton Arm Walkway is so peaceful and idyllic, with amazing views of the lake and mountains all the way along. You can take a boat ride out on the lake, see kiwis and other native birds at the Kiwi Park, take a stroll in the beautiful gardens, take a ride up the Skyline Gondola to Bob’s Peak and complete the Skyline walkway. It does have so much to do, lots of shops and choices of places to eat, along with every adventure¬†activity¬†you could think of – but it has so much more than that. Its striking beauty and gorgeous neverending views make it a really special place and has to be a must-see on any tour of South Island.

2. Glenorchy

Sitting just 48 kilometres north of Queenstown it could be described as Queenstown’s quieter less well-known relative. In reality Glenorchy is an absolute hidden gem of a place to visit. We primarily went there for our LOTR 4WD tour, but ended up falling in love with the place! It is known primarily for its associations with the LOTR/The Hobbit films as many of the surrounding locations were used as sets in the films – the Misty Mountains, Isengard, Hobbiton (from The Hobbit), and the scene of Boromir’s death among many others ¬†Glenorchy is a really peaceful little town, but still with lots to offer. We spent a lovely morning walking the Glenorchy Lagoon walkway which offers brilliant panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Glenorchy houses a quant¬†information¬†shed with a long history and short pier out into Lake Wakatipu again with a stunning views. It is also home to a small place aptly named ‘Paradise’ – which feels like just that! Should you wish to you can also do more adventure¬†seeking¬†activities¬†such as a jet boat on the Dart River or Skydive through the clouds. The icing on the cake for Glenorchy has to be the drive up from Queenstown which is a strong contender for best drive in NZ! The famous Glenorchy to Queenstown road closely follows Lake Wakatipu and with lookout points along the way offering an excellent way of seeing the beauty all around.

3. Catlins Region

The real highlight of the Catlins region for us was seeing yellow-eyed penguins in the wild (see our video we made above, of our wonderful memories)! We had read a lot about the Catlins region before we came, and often people said they felt it was a somewhat well-kept secret of NZ and that many people wanted to visit but just didn’t get down this far south. It is a little out of the way, but for us, fitted perfectly into our complete loop of the island. I would highly recommend¬†a visit into this remote part of the South island, and it is definitely worth the trip. It just has such variety to offer, with wonderful wildlife! The roads are much less travelled on and some are still gravel but do not let that put you off, our little Holden Barina Spark managed just fine and it added to the¬†experience¬†of getting there! You should set aside at least 3 days to explore the whole Catlins regions, as it lends itself to a ‘roadtrip’ type journey. We based ourselves in Curio Bay for 2 nights and Kaka Point for 1 night. It is definitely prone to pretty wild weather but it suits the landscape and creates a pretty special atmosphere. Just a few of the highlights for us were Waipapa Lighthouse, seeing penguins in the wild at the¬†petrified¬†forest at Curio Bay, the very photogenic Purakaunui Falls, and Nugget Point lighthouse. At other times of year you might also see blue penguins and dolphins playing in the surf along some of the beaches. We weren’t able to visit the more well-known Cathedral Caves as they were closed, but we hope to go back in future and see them, as we would love to go back to this beautiful area. Catlins, despite often being missed off many a South Itinerary, offer such a vast and varied range of wonderful landscapes – wild beaches, amazing wildlife, quaint lighthouses and stunning waterfalls – that they simply have to be visited!

4. Marlborough Sounds

Marlborough Sounds was a bit of a mystery to us before coming, as despite reading and¬†researching¬†a fair amount about it we still did not really know what to expect. Many people said it was absolutely fantastically beautiful and it really did not disappoint! We spent a really special time here as we celebrated my husband’s 30th birthday on board a privately chartered boat – where we saw gorgeous dolphins and wonderful views. The Queen Charlotte Drive – again which we had read much about – was a beautiful drive with views at every corner. It is quite a challenging drive, but definitely worthwhile. There were lots of little stops and bays along this road – with Governor’s Bay being our favourite – and this area offer such beauty. Picton forms the entry point for those getting the ferry from Wellington, and it and its surrounding area are really pretty. Marlborough Sounds offers tranquility, wildlife and beauty quite unrivalled!

5. Mount Cook

Mount Cook was a place we had longed to visit – it seemed so dominant and striking on the New Zealand landscape. So when we got the chance to spend 2 nights at Mount Cook village we made the most of every second. As my top 5 drives post (coming soon) will note the drive up to Mount Cook alongside the stunning Lake Pukaki is absolutely amazing! The view alongside the lake of Mount Cook are breathtaking. As you arrive in Mount Cook you do feel a little cut off, but it is a nice feeling. With only a small population and a focus very much on tourism and hospitality the village has a lovely warm and welcoming feel to it. As any local resident will tell you the weather is quite temperamental in this part of NZ. Being quite high above sea level the vlllage is prone to¬†unpredictable¬†weather, and I think the stats are 2 days out of 3 Mount Cook is covered with cloud. But do not be put off by these stats as when you do finally get to see it, it is such a wonderful sight! They also get snow and we had a nice sprinkling whilst we were staying there back in October. There are many lovely walks around the Mount Cook area – some shorter ones for those not keen on proper ‘hiking’ but also some longer half-day and day hikes for those more serious.¬†Activities¬†are also varied include 4WDing and a boat trip out on the glacier lagoon (which we did – and loved). Mount Cook provided us with some iconic images and iconic memories and will not soon be forgotten.

Places that could have made the list (but didn’t for quite specific reasons) are:

  • Abel Tasman National Park – we only took a flying visit here, and spent a half day exploring the coast via boat, but think if we spent longer here, this could make the list. The beaches are gorgeous (especially the starting point of Kaiteriteri) and walking the Abel Tasman Track seemed like it would be one of NZ’s easiest but most beautiful walks. It is very accessible and has lots of little hidden coves and stunning views. So¬†definitely¬†a place to come back to should we have time!
  • Doubtful Sound – one place we visited on this holiday that was a huge¬†disappointment¬†– but only because of the awful weather! See my blog posting of the time for more detail, but had the weather not¬†consisted¬†of almost complete lack of¬†visibility¬†and torrential rain we think this could also have made the list.
  • Milford Sound – we visited Milford Sound back in 2006 so haven’t included it on this 2012 list – but it was absolutely amazing and would make a top 5 of that trip. The drive down is scary but really worth it with stunning scenery and the boat trip out (we went with the smaller Mitre Peak cruises) was incredibly memorable.
  • Franz Josef Glacier – again a place we visited on our 2006 trip, but the heli hike we took up on the glacier is¬†probably¬†still our favourite all time thing we have done in NZ. We took our trip with Helicopter Line who were fantastic and loved every second of the helicopter ride and 2 hour hike on the¬†glacier¬†– with views out of this world!

I hope you have found this interesting Рand those of you hoping to travel around NZ possibly even helpful! Please feel free to comment, ask questions and add any of your favourite places you visit in NZ. I will be following this post next with Top 5 drives, walks, and activities, so watch this space!

Categories: Activities, New Zealand, Top 5 | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , | 14 Comments

A 30th Birthday to remember!

Sunday 30th September: John’s 30th Birthday

What a day! I will start with a brilliant picture of the day:

[I haven’t had internet access as we are staying in the middle of nowhere at the moment, so am posting a bit retrospectively to catch up what we did. In this instance it is also easier to post all the pictures at the end of this posting in a gallery.]

We had the best day of our New Zealand Adventure so far today – which is perfect as it coincided with John’s Birthday! We made an early start (after luckily awaking early and realising we hadn’t put our clocks forward!) and drove towards Picton to meet a couple who were taking us out on their boat. We decided to privately charter a boat rather than go on a big tour with others – as it was John’s 30th and a once in a lifetime chance! We met Ian and Sybil – who run Queen Charlotte Boat Charters – at their house and got the boat (‘Stormdancer’) from Waikawa Marina near their house.

The weather was perfect and the water was calm. We spent a good three and a half hours out on the boat travelling around Marlborough Sounds. We barely saw another boat and really enjoyed the peace and tranquility out on the water. It was incredibly beautiful as we traveled around small coves and took in the views. We saw a little seal bobbing in the water (see pic below in the gallery) as well as lots of birds and fish. The icing on the cake came when rather unexpectedly we came across a pod of dolphins which swam all around the boat and followed the boat as we travelled through the water. We took some pictures of them and it really was a wonderful sight! We felt so privileged to be out in the isolation and wilderness and to see these beautiful creatures. We were sad to come in off the water but had had a truly once in a lifetime experience and a really memorable birthday for John.

Categories: Activities | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

Blog at

%d bloggers like this: